2017 Domaine Serrigny Bourgogone Blanc, Burgundy, France   

Mostly this comes from the northeast corner of Meursault: an acre of mature vines planted in Herbeux (a site whose pedigree is such that it never, as Marie-Laure points out, need blush in the presence of a Meursault villages) and another acre spread between Les Malpoiriers and Lombois. The grapes from these sites are augmented by grapes from a third of an acre planted in 1993 in Savigny-les-Beaune's Les Perrières, a very rocky, calcareous vineyard that is one of the highest in that commune. The wine is raised in neutral oak for twelve months, then racked into steel for another four months. The fruit and tension in this wine is remarkable every year. For Bourgogne Blanc, it's a great buy.